A young college student strolls leisurely down the campus nature path. As she
nears the end of the trail, a branch catches her clothing and a vibrant red
raspberry catches her eye. She eagerly savors its sun-ripened sweetness. This
sounds like a fairy tale doesn’t it? It’s not; it was my very own
experience not two months ago at a small liberal-arts school in Vermont. It’s
2014 in the United States: we have thousand-square-foot grocery stores packed
with dozens of assorted fruits and vegetables, all fresh, dried, or frozen. No
one picks wild berries from bushes to bring home and bake into pies anymore.
But why? Why don’t we forage Vermont’s thousands of acres of forest for fresh
food? It’s not as if we are a densely-populated state with no arable land.
There is so much potential for Vermont to completely restructure its food
production system, from the strong local-food movement to the advocacy for
GMO-labeling. Vermont is arguably the best place in the U.S. to begin the
transformation from behemoth factory farms to community-based agriculture. Who
wants to start a revolution?
How Local is Local?
We’ve
all heard the rhetoric: “Buy fresh, buy local,” or “Local food: taste the
difference!” It looks better, tastes better, is better for you—or so they say.
But how local is local? During the school year I live just outside Burlington,
Vt., the land of farmers markets and small dairy farms. My local can be as
close as the weekly market in Winooski, a larger one in Burlington, or perhaps
even one in New York, just across Lake Champlain. Or can it? When I buy Cabot
brand cheese, or coffee from Keurig Green Mountain, am I really “buying local?”
They are both locally-based companies that just happen to sell their products
nationally. “We are a national company based in Vermont, but we’re not really a
local company anymore,” says Winston Rost, Farmer Relations Manager at Keurig
Green Mountain. So here’s the dilemma: at what mileage does local cease to be
local enough? I could argue that once there is no longer a maple-flavored
version of every available food that I have gone too far from home. Philip
Ackerman-Leist, author and professor at Green Mountain College, believes the
definition is about much more than physical geography. In his book Rebuilding
the Foodshed, he says a successful local food system must “fit the
community in question and its surrounding environment," as well as sponsor
food sovereignty. Food sovereignty is the idea that people, individuals who
live in a geographic location, have the right to determine their food and
agricultural policies. This includes everything from GMO labeling to where you
buy apples. Food sovereignty activists seek to adjust and democratize food
production and agriculture. “If [the food system] was more diversified, which I
think is needed nationally and in Vermont, it would actually meet our food
needs,” said Theresa Snow, Executive Director of Salvation Farms, in a phone
interview. “We are not meeting those needs with what we are producing
[nationally] now. Not even close.” Local food could be the remedy. The more a
community supports and relies on smaller, family-owned farms, the less they
rely on imported goods and national companies like Monsanto. But it’s easy to
say that every county needs a system of small family farms and farmers markets.
Is it really that simple?
Arable Available Land
The United States has the most arable land
of any country in the world. I’ll say that again: out of all the recognized
countries on planet Earth, the U.S. has the most land available and suitable for
farming. In 2007 alone, over 408 million acres of land were used to raise food
crops. That is still less than one-fifth of our total land area. Of all
privately-held land, about 25 percent, or 613 million acres, is used as grazing
land for livestock (Environmental Protection Agency). That is a lot of field, a
lot of plants, and a lot of animals. But is it enough? In Chittenden County,
Vt., about 20 percent of the population faces issues with food security (United
States Department of Agriculture). Those who live in areas of low food
security, otherwise known as food deserts, do not have easy access to
healthful, affordable food. This could mean that a household does not have a
car or access to public transportation, or that there are no grocery stores within
a half-mile radius, which is considered to be walking distance. In urban
settings, food deserts are often whole city blocks with only convenience stores
and fast food chains. In more rural areas, a household may be surrounded by
crops that are not edible, like soy, and the nearest grocery store may be four
miles away or more. If we have hundreds of millions of acres of land being
farmed, and hundreds of millions more that can be farmed, why is a quarter of
our population going hungry? In the past twenty years, the number of acres used
for food production decreased from 987 million to 914 million acres—that is
more than an eight percent decrease (EPA). In that time, the U.S. population
has increased from 263 million to almost 317 million people—over a 20 percent
increase (Multpl). It seems almost counter-intuitive to decrease the amount of
land farmed for food when our population is increasing at such a rapid pace.
It’s not as though we are facing a housing
shortage, and need the land for living area. One of the problems lies in
the food system itself: when everything is owned by corporate conglomerates
like Monsanto, small farmers cannot make a livable wage. Once farmers go broke,
they leave. It is a “rural bloodletting…When farms go out of business, the
local businesses that depend on them also disappear” (Hauter). This damages
local economies, creating food deserts where there could be a system of co-ops
and farmers markets, while increasing dependency on foreign imports.
Organic?
So
we’re losing farmland to unnecessary housing, and farmers to minimum-wage urban
jobs. The solution to this is pretty simple: the federal government could
subsidize farms and food crops, and offer tax breaks to organic farmers. If
there is incentive, people will go….right? Maybe not. We’ve all seen the
organic food section of our local big-name grocery store. Often, it is rather
small; a basket of organic apples at the end of an aisle, a few heads of
lettuce placed apart from the rest. This produce often looks different from
their peers, with their misshapen bodies, dull skin, and smaller overall size.
Why would we pay more for them? Is the FDA Organic label really worth an extra
dollar or two per pound? I’ll let you in on a secret: organic food costs just
as much as “conventionally grown” produce. Don’t believe me? Here’s a little
tidbit: the government spent $15.8 billion on national farm subsidies in 2012
alone (2013 Farm Study). Vermont farmers received over $11 million, almost
entirely to dairy farms. That’s not always a bad thing! Government subsidies,
including crop insurance, is what has kept our ever-shrinking farming industry
alive and the consumer costs down. However, these subsidies most often go to
corn and soy producers, leading to an overabundance of these crops and a
shortage of “edible crops.” Corn and soy have become the cash crops for modern
farmers, much like tobacco in the Old South. They have been turned into
biodiesel, plastics, and sugary syrups in an attempt to combat this gross
overproduction. “Consumer demand has little to do with what crops are grown” in
the United States, which is exactly the opposite of what we have always been
taught about business (Bosia). There is simply too much risk and too little
profit in growing the produce we see in our grocery stores, and so the
government tries to subsidize that a bit, too. Organic food is different. In
order to have an organic label, farmers must go through an intense
certification process that can cost up to two percent of their yearly income
(Fatemi). Two percent may not seem like a lot, but two-thirds of
USDA-recognized farms are classified as “mid-sized,” and make less than $20,000
in net income per year (Hauter). Because of this expensive and time-consuming
process, most certified organic farms are owned and operated by large-scale
industrial businesses like Monsanto. So what does this have to do with local
food? While buying organic is better for your body and the environment, it can
also open the doors for smaller farmers. The next time you visit a farmers
market, ask the person at the tent about their growing processes. More than
likely, they will be using less pesticides than traditional growers, if any at
all. They are also less likely to be GMO. This could be for economic as well an
environmental reasons: not only are pesticides expensive, but they are
extremely destructive. When large-scale growers spray pesticides over hundreds
of thousands of acres of land, it will inevitably contaminate the water supply
of the entire county. Additionally, the two most common chemicals found in
pesticides, atrazine and glyphosate, are proven carcinogens and have been
linked to breast cancer (Fatemi). In buying locally, or even organically, you
can help reduce or completely bypass these malevolent practices and support the
local economy all in one.
Farmers’ Rights
Wherever
you get your produce, someone somewhere had to till, sow, plant, water, weed,
harvest, and otherwise tend to those precious plants. As previously mentioned,
most individual farms and farmers don’t make more than $20,000 per year. But
there are even more people involved in the process that are not technically
farmers, yet still work twelve-hour days doing hard physical labor, tending to
the food crops they may never be able to afford. Legality is a major part of
modern-day agriculture. Almost every farm interacts on some level with large
corporate conglomerates like Monsanto, whether through seed, pesticides, animal
feed, or all of the above. In 2012, a soybean farmer was sued by Monsanto for
“violat[ing] the company’s terms of use” for its “Roundup Ready” seeds, which
are genetically engineered to be pesticide resistant (Laskawy). The farmer,
Vernon Bowman, had bought seeds for his second crop from other farmers, which
the contract allowed, but some of the seeds were “cross-contaminated” with the
genetically engineered seeds, and Monsanto sued him.
Farming is already one of the
most dangerous jobs in the world, and also one of the most important. So why
are the federal government and big businesses making their job so much more
difficult? The Vermont Agency of Agriculture has been working to aid farmers
with its Farm First and Farm Safety programs. The Farm First program focuses on
solution for problems such as “health or family-related, stress, financial,
legal, disability or other concerns,” consulting with them to not only fix
these problems, but also to improve communication and reduce accidental injury
(Farmer Wellness). In buying local food, you are supporting small farmers,
giving them the resources to increase their standards of living and possibly
even expanding their land area. Buying locally also reduces our overall dependency
on foreign-grown food products, diminishing the environmental toll of
processing, packaging, and shipping. “Agriculture is the ground zero of climate
change,” said Robert Parkhurst of the Environmental Defense Fund. “It helps so
much if you can offer farmers a little money. You just need that little push to
get them over the hump (Johnson).” In supporting farmers, you reinforce the
local economy, cut down on negative environmental impacts, and you could even
help break the shackles companies like Monsanto have on the people who
literally give us life.
Obesity and Nutrition
United
States citizens are overweight. It’s nothing we haven’t heard a thousand times
before: 35 percent of Americans are categorized as medically obese. That’s over
78.6 million people.
But what does that have to do with local food? Let’s start
with the basics: low-income households are more likely to be overweight and
have weight-related health problems than those considered to be “middle-” or
“upper-class.” This goes back to the food deserts described earlier. But even
when full-service grocery stores or farmers markets are available, they may
still be inaccessible to low-income families. “Healthy food is often more
expensive, whereas refined grains, added sugars, and fats are generally
inexpensive and readily available in low-income communities,” either in
supermarkets or convenience stores (Why Low-Income). When faced with limited
funds, or when receiving government assistance through programs like SNAP,
households often try to stretch their food budgets by purchasing cheap,
processed, calorie-dense food. State officials in Michigan realized this, and
created the Double Up Food Bucks program. Those who are eligible for federal
SNAP benefits can visit local farmers markets, and whatever they spend on fruits
and veggies is matched up to $20 to spend on other SNAP-eligible food items.
This encourages healthier eating habits and the support of local food systems.
Additionally, certain grocery stores in the Detroit area have adopted this
program through November, so families can still have access to these benefits
once farmers markets have closed for the season ("How it Works").
Schools are also incorporating more local food. The Vermont Food Bank recently
started a School Food Pantry To-Go in collaboration with Feeding America to
serve students and families in need. Beginning in April 2013, JFK Elementary in
Winooski introduced this program with the hope of providing families
with fresh, nutritious food. Since its inception, this Food Pantry To-Go has begun work with Rutland Northeast Elementary School, Rutland Northwest Elementary School, Molly Stark Elementary School, and JFK Elementary School (“School Food Pantry To-Go”). It can be extremely difficult to access fresh and affordable food, especially with a low household income. But programs like Double Up Food Bucks and the School Food Pantry, designed with local families in mind, are encouraging more people to spend their money on fruits and vegetables as opposed to fast food and prepared meals. It’s not only good for the local economy, but for the health of the next generation.
Just Do It
Knowing
about the benefits of local food systems is one thing—acting on that knowledge
is another entirely. So what can you do? Keep it simple: start small by buying
one kind of organic produce per shopping trip. It can be bananas one week and
apples the next. See what works for you.
Alternatively, if it is farmers market
season, find a variety of fruits and vegetables you already like and compare
them to their “traditionally-grown” cousins from the supermarket. Once you start
trying these locally-grown foods, it can be easier to branch out and try new
things. After you’ve found a variety of foods you like, prepare a meal! Cooking
food together is beneficial on many levels. Obviously, it provides sustenance
for yourself and your family, and you know exactly what is going into your meal
and can make it to your specific tastes. There is also the added benefit of
bringing the family together. It can seem daunting to bring the whole family
into the kitchen, especially if you have small children. But studies have shown
time and time again that making meals together fosters familial connections,
appreciation for family members, allows for the teaching of “life lessons,” and
creates memories (“4 Benefits”). Even the pickiest of eaters is more willing to
try something if they’ve helped to create it! “I have learned that the best way
to teach people something is to make it fun, and to have it taste good!” says
Joyce Cellars, Community Relations Manager of the Intervale Center. In order to
get people interested, you have to make them care. As the saying goes, the way
to someone’s heart is through their stomach. You could even make it a monthly
or bimonthly event: a family trip to the grocery store or farmers market to buy
food for that night’s meal. “Food is the biggest example of how young people,
older people, people of all ages can get that connectivity back and feel that
they’re making a difference, said Heather Lynch, Sustainability Coordinator at
Saint Michael’s College.
“We’re in a society that takes things for granted, and
food is one of those things.” If you don’t have the time or talent to cook,
there’s always container gardening. Container gardening is an easy way
to grow your own fruits, vegetables, or herbs with little space or energy.
Essentially, if you have a pot, soil, and water, you can grow your own food!
Vegetables like carrots, peppers and tomatoes don’t take up much space, nor do
most kinds of berries (Iannotti). This is even viable in areas considered to be
food deserts; seed packets only cost a dollar, and it’s easy to get dirt from
outside. Even old milk jugs and other empty containers can be re-purposed as a
planter. It really doesn’t take much. There are all kinds of little ways to
bring fresh, local, nutritious foods into your own home, no matter what your income
level or geographic location.
So
now what? People everywhere are making a difference, from growing tomatoes out
of milk jugs, to gleaning extra produce from fields, to buying food from
farmers markets. It’s not just about what we eat, but about the rights of those
who grow it. The local food movement is all about the connections we make: to
our neighbors, to our land, and to ourselves. “Everyone else is in their own
world, with their own time frame, on their own track, and it’s amazing what a
process it is to take a vision and make it into something when it isn’t just
money and bricks and mortar, it’s actually building movement and change with
people,” said Snow. Sure, buying local food is good for economy, and yes
it is good for the environment. But at the end of the day it all comes back to
people. Cellars agrees, “It’s about knowing where your food comes from, and
knowing who grew it. It’s about understanding the complexities and difficult
choices that we have to make to feed ourselves sustainably in our changing
world. And, finally, it’s about shared responsibility – for each other, for our
natural resources, and for making sure that farming is a viable livelihood.” In
supporting local food systems, you are exhibiting pride for the place you call
home. So I’ll ask my question again: who wants to start a food revolution?
Sources
Bosia,
Michael. "Can We Eat Our Way to a Better World?" Food Sustainability
Panel. Saint Michael's College, Colchester, VT. 27 Oct. 2014. Lecture.
Cellars,
Joyce. E-mail interview. 28 Oct. 2014.
Fatemi,
Farrah. "Can We Eat Our Way to a Better World?" Food Sustainability
Panel. Saint Michael's College, Colchester, VT. 27 Oct. 2014. Lecture.
Lynch,
Heather. Personal interview. 28 Oct. 2014.
Rost,
Winston. Telephone interview. 30 Oct. 2014.
Snow,
Theresa. Telephone Interview. 15 Oct. 2014.